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Pizza makers in Naples.
Pizza twirling in Naples joins a list of more than 350 traditions, art forms and practices recognised by Unesco. Photograph: Tiziana Fabi/AFP/Getty
Pizza twirling in Naples joins a list of more than 350 traditions, art forms and practices recognised by Unesco. Photograph: Tiziana Fabi/AFP/Getty

Naples' pizza twirling wins Unesco ‘intangible’ status

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Traditional art of pizzaiuolo, handed down for generations in southern Italian city, secures coveted world heritage honour

The Neapolitan art of pizza twirling has joined Unesco’s list of “intangible heritage”, securing the coveted status alongside a Saudi art form traditionally practised only by women.

The art of pizzaiuolo – which has been handed down for generations in Naples, southern Italy – was approved by the UN cultural body’s world heritage committee, which met on the South Korean island of Jeju.

Approximately 2 million people had signed a petition to support Naples’ application, according to Sergio Miccu, head of the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaiuoli – no doubt buoyed by his offer of complimentary pizza if the culinary tradition joined the prestigious list. “We’ll be giving out free pizza in the streets,” Miccu promised.

Proud pizza-makers in Naples celebrated even before the distinction was announced on Thursday, pounding the dough and handing pizzas out to passersby.

“How perfect to celebrate with pizza for breakfast. The word pizza must be the most famous in the world, in every language, and now everyone knows we invented it!” said Marco Toeldo, 47, who was on his third slice.

The custom goes far beyond the pizzaiuolo’s spectacular handling of the dough – hurling it into the air to “oxygenate” it – to include songs and stories that have turned pizza-making into a social ritual.

“Victory!” tweeted Italy’s minister for agriculture, food and forestry, Maurizio Martina. “Another step towards the protection of Italy’s food and wine heritage.”

L’arte del pizzaiuolo napoletano è patrimonio culturale dell’Umanità Unesco. Vittoria! Identità enogastronomica italiana sempre più tutelata nel mondo #pizzaUnesco pic.twitter.com/MgQ5izZWbf

— Maurizio Martina (@maumartina) December 7, 2017

In a statement, Martina said the recognition came after years of campaigning. “The art of the Neapolitan pizza-maker contains Italian know-how ... especially traditional knowledge that has been transmitted from generation to generation,” he said.

Thirty-four candidates had sought to join the intangible heritage list, created in 2003 mainly to raise awareness, although Unesco also sometimes offers financial or technical support to countries struggling to protect their traditions.

Quick Guide

Unusual winners of Unesco heritage status

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Uilleann piping, Ireland

This variety of bagpipe practice, originating in Ireland, was developed in around 1700. Unesco says it adds a sense of rootedness to important life events like weddings and funerals and that its characteristic sound instantly recalls Irish culture.

Whistled language, Turkey

Developed to communicate over a long distances in mountainous terrain, the language uses whistling to simulate words. its practitioners are mainly farmers. Unesco fears that the custom is under threat from mobile phones.

Ijele masquerade, Nigeria

In Anambra state in south-east Nigeria, brightly coloured ijele masks – which are 4 metres tall and take a team of 100 six months to build – are frequently used to mark both joyous and solemn occasions. The masquerade plays a number of important spiritual and political roles in the community, Unesco says.

Ido Vock

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The list includes more than 350 traditions, art forms and practices from Spain’s flamenco dancing to Indonesian batik fabrics, to more obscure entries such as a Turkish oil-wrestling festival and a Mongolian coaxing ritual for camels.

Saudi Arabia was among those celebrating on Jeju, after being recognised for al-Qatt al-Asin – elaborate interior wall paintings traditionally created by women. The art form, which promotes female solidarity, is handed down through observation.

Another winner was the traditional horseback game of Kok Boru in Kyrgyzstan, where players score points by putting a goat’s carcass in an opponent’s goal – though in recent times players have been replacing the dead animal with a mould.

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